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AKA, lets’ sort my skin out...
I have melasma, pretty bad melasma, and have had it for at least the last 15years. Caused (i believe by sun exposure and hormonal contraception use for two decades). It’s all over my forehead and in recent years has crept down my face.
Melasma is a fairly common skin condition of adults in which light to dark brown or greyish pigmentation develops, mainly on the face. I’ve have spent an insane amount of money on products trying to get rid of it, without much sucess. We do have a treatment at my work that addresses it (Cosmelan – the before and afters are INSANE) BUT it’s a pretty deep peel and the downtime means you have a seriously red face for around a week, if not longer. I’ve never had the balls for it, just can’t face being out in public looking beetroot and feeling sore.
And then last Thursday happened… I was sitting in a training session at work for a new peel we are launching and the trainer grabbed me and said ‘do you want me to sort that out’ gesturing at my forehead. So will a promise of minimal downtime - redness for 2 days, mild peeling on days 4 to 7 and a promised reduction in the patches, hell I was IN!
The peel that was being used is the ME LINE pigmentation peel, a ‘controlled chemical dermabrasion’. It’s fairly quick treatment with an extensive at home regime to maximise the beneficial effects of the peel. I need to mention here, at home care is so important to support and aid treatments, I’ll write a separate post on this, it’s something I’m passionate about.
How does the ME LINE peel work?
The ME LINE peeling liquid is made up of various acids which help to break down existing pigmentation and inhibit the production of new melanin. These acids are:
Tranexamic acid - whitening effect on ultraviolet-induced hyper pigmentation, that’s my early years sun exposure sorted.
Mandelic acid - a melanin inhibitor, helping keep control of the pigmentation.
Kojic acid - inhibits tyrosinase (the enzyme that produces the melanin.
Retinoids - exfoliation to help disperse the melanin
Clinical evidence:
I like to see data round treatments, A study of 168 participants was carried out with the peel, these participants had mixed skin concerns including hyperpigmentation, skin ageing and acne. ‘
Excellent results in 95% of cases of hyperpigmentation
Excellent results in 90% of cases for the aged skin
Excellent results in 85% of patients with acne-prone skin
Excellent results in 65% of cases with melano-hematic pigmentation
R'esults '(These are from the distributor of the product), i have no idea what the quantification of 'excellent' is!
The Treatment Protocol:
The skin is first degreased with alcohol wipes (the stingiest part of the process), this prepares the skin. A prepping agent is then applied for a few minutes, this is layered onto the skin for a couple of minutes.
The peel is then applied in a thick mask like layer and is worn for up to 4 hours depending on the severity of the pigmentation. I only had mine on for 15 minutes because we were in a training situation and the team were learning about application and function rather than my having a full peel. My next one will be full face and hopefully on for a little longer.
With peels you can often feel a heat or uncomfortable stinging, I didn't feel anything at all with this one, apparently that's down to the prep layer which helps the absorption without irritation.
One it had been on for 15 minutes, it was cleansed off thoroughly and then the 'moist' serum was applied followed by some BB cream (with SPF)* and I was sent home with a bag of home care products and a slightly reddened face!
Next up, I'm keeping a diary of the days after and my verdict of the first peel
* BTW it is critically important that a good SPF is used post peel, do not scrimp on this, peels can leave the skin very sun sensitive and can make the pigmentation much, much worse if exposed to sun